Brrrrrr

Oh, it's freezing this morning.   Last nights blue pill did the trick and I slept through without worrying of snakes or scorpions.  In another space I could hear the rain pounding on the roof and the wind in the trees.  I crawled under the blankets, making sure my mosquito net was still intact and stayed there a while until I was brave enough to get up and go check the bathroom.  The scorpion had been partly devoured by ants, the wind was still blowing, everything felt damp and warranted both merino and the polar fleece.  I wanted to go home to Bianca's or to the Manoly Hotel.  I was glad it was my last day.  

Ban Pako was gorgoeus, in a beautiful location, rustic and fun.  However it lacked any form of personality, service, passion, alternatives to lazing or anything that might make me want to return.  Still it achieved its purpose and I rested well, loved the peace and quiet, but still feel as though I need a decent sleep and that can only come from a natural sleep I am sure.

I get my electric jug ready for my morning coffee.  It was a cheap electric jug.  As most days I can't be bothered getting dressed to go an get a coffee from the hotel breakfast bar in the morning, I bought the jug so I can make myself a tea of coffee whenever I want.  It was not only very cheap but it is also quite clever.  Although it is a sealed container it leaks as it boils so half the water comes out.  To get the plug to stay in I have to prop it against something.  The scariest is that I think the water is coming out of where the plug goes.  I am donating it to Ban Pako, as hopefully I will have a jug wherever I go from now and if not at least I wont be electrocuted whilst trying to make a coffee.

And so once I have given up on the jug I go for breakfast and have a double espresso, frothy, under extracted and like dish water, like any coffee from any automatic device is.  I struggle that they can call it espresso or coffee for that matter.  

I'm certainly not going walking today, who knows what crawlies will be out after the rain, so I grab my book, open all doors and windows and return to my room.  The light in the room is not enough to light anything, the reading lamp not much better and so with the natural light coming in I managed to at least be able to see the words on the page.  This book is about LadyBoys in Thailand. Personal stories from a handful and a variety of LadyBoys. Men who do not relate to their male identity but to a female identity.  Most are aware of their differences from a young age.  Many take the steps to change gender (trans-gender) but others function as a female while retaining their male genitalia.  Some look to the world to be a straight male during their everyday but by night morph into beautiful "women".  

Most Ladyboys are employed in industries that are generally monopolised by women, beauty, fashion, hairdressing; it is here in the artistic world that their interests often  lie.  Some live like a natural woman, some have married and/or have regular male/female relationships and a good proportion in parts of Bangkok and surrounding areas live by means of prostition, go-go dancing or other not so "proper" professions.

Many of the cosmetic counters in Bangkok stores and hairdressing salons are manned (for want of a better word) by LadyBoys who are immaculately presented and appear to be far more knowledgeable than their female counterparts.  In many cases it is difficult to tell if they are LadyBoys or women and often the one giveaway is the size of their feet.  Other physical features can be changed with the use of hormones or surgery (Adam's Apples can be shaved) but male large feet just don't go away.

In comparison In NZ Pacific Island Fa'afafine are not uncommon.   Fa'afafine – or “Fafa” – are men who are raised as females and identify with that gender.  They mostly have relationships with heterosexual men and are generally not gay.  In most of the Pacific Island nations, particularly in Samoa, gender identity is largely based on a person's role in the family and if one family has numerous sons and no daughters, it's not uncommon to raise one of the boys as a girl.  Some Polynesian elders believe there are boys born with the “Fa'afafine spirit,” while others say it can only be nurtured.

My book occupies much of my day until it is time to leave.  I forwent lunch for the bag of chippies I was lugging  around as basically I didn't want to trudge throught what was now mud where the dust was.  

I settled the bill 800,000 kip for accommodation, meals and two way transport.  Not bad, but probably what it was worth.  While I enjoyed my stay and loved the location and peace, there were so many tiny things that could turn Ban Pako Eco Lodge into a destination, and one that people could pay handsomly for.  All the finishing touches were missing, it lacked a soul, it lacked hospitality and it lacked character.  It also lacked room service of any description.  No making of beds, topping up of loo rolls, mini bar.  Nothing.  If you wanted a drink you had to go to the bar.  They didn't even provide bottled water and that is the first place in many countries that I have not had bottled water in my room.  Thankfully I had bought my own.  The location was sublime and even the bungalows were OK.  Bits and pieces of maintenance wouldn't go astray and some fly screening would work wonders.  The new restaurant and the bar area were lovely and the food pretty much OK for the type of place it was.  But it takes more than function to make a place memorable.  But I am not complaining because I did have a rest, despite the fact that I left feeling as though I had not slept in weeks, but it could have been so much nicer.

My thoughts took me back to the Manoly hotel.  It really was lovely.  Not flash, but the rooms were generous and clean, the outlook lovely, close to the city, and quiet.  All the rooms (I changed three times) were in need of some sort of maintenance but it was only minor things, fly screens falling out, light bulbs needing replacement, plaster work in bathrooms needing a professional touch, but the plusses far outweighed the negative and for $35 per night was superb value for money. It did have a soul, the people were lovely (despite the craziness of some) and there was so much public space to just hang out it once you were sick of your balcony or deck.

The dusty van came to collect me but this time instead of Chris driving there was a polite young guy with a name I do not recall.  He spoke a little English and kindly asked about NZ.  All I could really think of was dozing in the van.  No, I must stay awake. I have to sleep proper tonight.  I am going back to Bee and Michaels and am looking forward to spending a few days with them before we go to Hanoi.  His driving skils were excellent and he planted his foot on many occasions getting us in to the city in quick time.  On the way we passed the monstrosity houses again.  The photo shows (the white building) part of a HOUSE that is being built for the guy that presently runs a business and owns the goldy coloured building in the front.  It is huge, obscene, has every sort of imaginable architrectural,styles mixed into one.  Apparently it is the latest tourist attraction.  Chris actually took me the long way round so I could see it as we headed to Ban Pako.

                                    

On the way out Chris had pointed out a new mall that had attracted many of the shops that were in the morning market. and I looked out for it as we got closer to the city but alas couldn't see anything.  

But Vientiane I am home.  I go back to Manoly hotel and grab my bag and wander back in to the city.  On the way impass the main hospital in time to see a couple exiting with a tiny baby in the arms of the man.  No luggage, no crib just lady, man and baby.  The other day I saw another couple where the man was cradling what looked like a new born.  They didn't have luggage either and were on the bus stop waiting for a bus.

Of course I had to go to Le Banneton and there I enjoyed a great Bacon and Eggs which came with half a baguette that was promptly poked into my sunny side up egg.  Heaven and the protein shot was just what was needed.  The coffee a disappointment and not as good as usual.  Instead of my usual double, being a demi-tasse of double strength, it was a double sized rather insipid single shot.  

I did a few errands and then tuktuked back to Michael and Bee's to be welcomed by Miss Joey and later by Mr DeeJai.  Good to be back.  I was in heaven when I later got the chance to do some DIYing and fix a few things including starting a DeeJai proof front gate.  Can't wait to finish it tomorrow.

The evening was spent at home with the kids relaxing, chatting and enjoying Michael's delicious red curry.  Thanks Michael.  A lovely end to a lovely evening.