I am collected in a tuktuk, taken round the corner to Hotel Malay (gorgeous) to pay for my trip and then taken to the "pier" where I board the "cruise ship" by way of two bamboo planks. It took a while before we sailed off as the cruise ship has no fuel so we had to wait for some to be delivered. It was a brutally cold morning and even though I was in socks, merino and polar fleece I was so happy when they bought me, not one, but two blankets to swaddle in.
Eventually we take off. Beautiful scenery, very green and peacefull. All along the banks down to the water line are plots of vege gardens. People rent the land in the dry season and plant it up, either for their own use or to sell. In the wet season the water level rises and it all gets washed away. What a thankless task. But I guess better than nothing. We see them working the land, mainly women. Every now and then we see livestock, buffalo and beef, grazing on nothing. Bamboo grows everywhere. The trunks(if thats what they are called) are used for everything; building, stuffed in cooking, scaffolding, blinds, straws, iphone speakers - almost anything as it is a very hard and indestructible material. It seems amazing that such skinny poles can bear so much weight and yet be so light.
We pass many boats and "cruise ships", some with tourists, others just doing their daily business taking produce to market or just getting around, others empty save for the "captain". Who knows where they are going.
The scenery is haunting with the mist hanging over the hills. Eerie and serenely but simply stunning. Thank goodness, other than the hum of the motor and the swish of the water there is no sound. Peace... Water currents are quite visible. In one spot the water will be like glass and a foot either side it will be flowing so fast that it is making waves. The sailors obviously know how to judge it (hopefully). Lots of wee whirlpools, obviously something going on under the water and I think there are submerged pipes and cables. There are lots of rocks in places, making the path like an obstacle course. I'm glad the 'captain' knows what he is doing. Our 'guide' sits on the bench next to me. He is quietly singing to himself. Little islands dot the water and the limestone cliffs in the make a stunning backdrop, something a photo cannot do justice to.
The water is amazingly free from junk. Although a muddy brown colour there's nothing floating on top to show that it is polluted as is certiainly the case further down river in Vietnam, where it was filthy. The fish I have been eating for the last few days come out of these waters, mainly farmed but delicious, so the water must be very clean because I am still alive and kicking. I wouldnt eat fish from the Vietnam end of the Mekong though.
Actually, everywhere I have been in Laos has been very clean. In some places dusty but that cant be helped, but never dirty. The people are mainly immaculate and even old buildings and tuktuk are clean but in some cases ramshackle.
Past the Laolao village we go. Laolao is the local whiskey, clear and lethal I am told and we get to try it tonight. Oh headache coming up. At least I wont be the only one. There is only one other "tourist" on board. Like me he is doing a one nighter but we were told that there are quite a few people that went up last night and are still at the lodge. I do hope that doesnt mean a noisy night.
They bring me coffee. It's putrid but hot. I wrap my hands round the cup and am immediately warmed. Yes! After the incredible heat I have struggled with it seems ridiculous to be now struggling with the cold. I think though this is exacerbated by tiredness and the cold that we were subjected to last night, which in the end I couldnt feel as I was SO cold. I was still cold when I woke this morning and even an extra hot shower couldn't fix it.
We pass by the xxxxxxxxxxxc cave, which we are supposed to be coming to tomorrow. Lots of boats and tourists and do I really want to go there? Tomorrow is another day. I can decide then.
The water is starting to take on a greeny hue, particularly where it is still, reflecting the colours of the stunning bush on shore. Very, very pretty. The sun is coming out and blanket one has been retired. Times like this I wish I had a 'real' camera. This ipad or my point and shoot just dont capture the beauty around me.
A phone rings. Our quiet disturbed. The non-English speaking captain answers with a "hello", just like the little old lady at the batik session. Hello is obviously universal. The batik lady, I have since been told, does not only not speak English but she does not speak Lao either and was communicating with the others at the craft centre in Hmong, her native language. It is not unusual for the villagers to not speak Lao, for many of them have never needed to, having never left their village.
We are told that we are 5minutes from our destination, Kamu Lodge. As long as it is peaceful, I really dont care what its like............
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