Sunday 8 December 2013

Waking to the sound of monkeys

Amazing how peace and quiet can lull you quickly into a deep sleep.  I first woke about 4:00pm then drifted off again only to be woken again by the feint sound of a distant tent zip indoing.  7:00am.  

Breakfast starts at 7:30 and although not hungry I didn't want to be late so I packed and made my way up the beaten track, down the steps and along the paving stones next to the rice paddy, and into the restaurant.  All quiet.  I am the first, so over my first coffee of the day I watch a young kid stalking birds, trying to shoot them with his slingshot.  He's pretty determined and at one stage is crawling along he ground trying not to disturb them. Tactic, determination and speed. He got one in the end.

                                 

The rest of the group arrive and we begin sharing stories about where we have been.  Mine sound so pathetic compared to theirs,  the beauty of having like minded travel companions is that you can do the off the beaten track things much easier than by yourself.  Not sure that I like the idea of rigid timetables like they have but I guess its swings and roundabouts.  Still I have eaten at places they didn't know about and when I mentioned la Banneton some of the eyes lit up around the table, especially from the French couple.

                                 


Soon its time to leave so the two of us (the German guy with unusual name that I forgot as soon as I heard it) board the boat we came up on and head down river back to Luang Prabang.  My book came out and I read a few pages but the beautiful scenery got the better of the reading and I spent a lot of time glorying in the beauty and tranquility of the place.  

                                                      

We soon come to the Pak Ou caves where we alight and go check them out, crossing a crazy boardwalk as we leave the boat.  Hundred of buddahs everywhere. Can't say it was beautiful, amazing, or spectacular but I can say that I have been and seen the buddahs in the caves.  There are two parts of the caves, the upper and the lower.  Not sure of the significance of either but the upper is a damn good climb which saw us shredding the woolies we had left Kamu with.  The view of the Mekong impressed me more than the buddahs but I probably shouldn't  say that to the locals.  Their belief in the Buddah is amazing.

                                    

                                    

Interestingly the Kamu people are not Buddists but their beliefs lie more towards the animist beliefs like the Hmong.  The Kamu village that we went to had a small Buddist Temple at the side of the village, left there when the Lao people departed, but the Kamu don't use it so it is gradually falling apart.  

Back on the boat and we continue our trip, arriving in Luang Prabang sooner than expected; the return trip with the current so much quicker than the trip up against the current.

What to do with my bags?  A thought I had just briefly until I got back to the main road and realised I was over the road from the hairdressers.  She smiled beautifully when I asked if I could leave my bags till 3:00pm, so not hestitating I off loaded them and walked off. I wonder if she knew what I was talking about.  So where to now?  I have four hours to kill.  So.........

Pretty much straight to la Banneton, this time, for a pear and chocolate turnover.  Oh, oh, oh, oh.  Bloody fantastic... No other word to describe it.  Why have I resisted for so long.  Hopefully this will settle my dickey tummy that has been bugging me slightly for a few days.  Alas,  it makes it worse.  My phone is charging in Bannetons power socket, I write my blog trying to waste time so at least it will get a decent charge and my stomach ache will go away.  I order mint tea.  Lets see.  Maybe it just need coke.

As I sit waiting for the mint tea to kick in I am listening to a gentleman behind me dictating something to a lady who is transcribing on a tablet.  He speaks Italian and every now and then I catch a phrase and realise that yes, I do know the odd, very odd, bit of Italian.  So much is like either Greek or English. I think fondly of my time in Italy and know that one day I will return.  Despite my longing to go to the Middle East, North Africa and maybe South America, in that order, Italy still holds my heart and I would still love to live there.

The mint tea is kicking in.  I feel better and set off exploring again.  I am writingt his from the bun shop wher I am having a coke, hoping that will fix the stomach and it does feel better. 

Sick of wandering I make my way back to the ahirdrsssers to collect my bags.  The door is closed and a 'CLOSED' sign hangs in the doorway.  I try the door, locked!  Hmmmmmm.  A man pops his head out from next door.  "Closed" he says.  "What time open" I say pointing to my wrist and the watch that isnt there.  About 6 he tells me.  Shit I think.  My flight leaves at 5pm.  Just as I am ready to thu k of the next step and young man comes and opens the door and gives me my bags.  Yay.

A tuktuk brings me to the airport for the princely sum of 50,000 ($7).  I know I am getting ripped off but past the point of caring.  He was very polite though and pointed things out to me on the way and even unloaded my bags.  So it was money well spent.   On the way we passed a sign to a "Rester long" and cam only assume there was an eating establishment nearby, otherwise I wonder if there is also a rester short? 

I join the check in queue, two bags so I guess I have to check one in.  Just as I was ready to take my wter bottle put of my hand luggage for check in I see the sign.

                                             

Bugger, I could have bought my gun with me and taken it on board.  No need to remove the water bottle from my hand luggage, but they did remove the one that was hanging off the side of my checked in bag.  My pooh bag full of toiletries, a book, ipad, dirty washing amd my handbag is being cursed.  No wheels and heavy.  My hands hurt and I curse myself for buying it.  Oh well too late.  I mKe myself comfortable in the lovely new airport and wait.  At least the flight hasn't been cancelled as Bianca's was last week.  Mine will be full of a tour load of Chinese people.  I can probably count out the quick in flight nap I was counting on then.

Once again I am embarrassed to be sitting amongst a pile of  light skinned people in various states of undress.  Hey guys, shorts and skimpy singlets are for the beach, not the city, not the airport and particularly in a country like this, where the locals take special pains to cover up.  Do they see any Asian people dressed like that?  No!  Chances are that they are the same ones that complain about foreigners in their own country not doing as the romans do.  I notice that no one sits anywhere near close to any of the groups of them.

Eventually our flight is called and I go to boatd.  Problem and i am taking back to immigration for a security  passport check.  Um hello! I am on a domestic flight where I can take a gun on board and my passport has already been checked.  Some official flicks through my passport, flicks again, hands it back and I go board.

I am sure that at some stage the engine on my side had failed.  The plane was jerking and losing  height and sliding all over the place.  I was nearly at the stage where I was going to bid godbye to everyone that was safely on the ground. We land with a thud.  The captain applied the brakes and we hurl forward.  Glad I still had my seat belt on.

I met Bee and michael on the city and went to the cutest, three table restaurant run by the partner (named Tahn) of a friend of Michaels named Cliff.  Tahn is the most ebautiful Lao lady and this she opened this wee restaurant last weekend.  Both her steamed and her fried fish were to absolutely die for, so when in Vientiane make sure you go to Bounthans Reataurant, opposite the Vayakorn Inn just off the main road.  She works so hard and Cliff was the host, making us laugh the whole night.  A great evening.

We go back home to the kids place to find a newly concreted road and ramp up to their house.  Wow what a change in a week.

Mr Dee Jai was everywhere and has grown so much. Too cute for words watching him play with Joey.

I'm sure that someone hates me because as soon as I turned off the lights the bloody dog just down the road started and was accompanied by the long run roofing making a gell of a noise.  It was after 2:30 when I couldnt stand it any longer and went and found the ear plugs and a sleeping pill.  It took a while but I slept like a wee baby and when I woke lay there waiting to hear the kids stir.  Evenutally needed a loo stop so got up only to find that the kids had long ago left and it was after 9:00am. 





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