I see the bus pull up, this time a large mini bus. A familiar face hops out and there is my guide. Philip, yes, the same prattling funny Philip from the last tour. We set off and I anticipate seeing, lots, understanding little but laughing heaps. This time not so lucky in that the other seven passengers consisted of a loud Queensland couple who knew everything, a Malaysian couple who only wanted to visit the museum and then didn't want to leave, delaying us all, two Indian ladies that didn't talk and a lovely Danish couple. Consequently the trip wasnt the fun of the previous one but thats the luck of the draw.
But after three days of wandering in foot and getting lost the penny drops as we are being driven through the city and around the places I went to yesterday. I was being a real,girl and holding the map the wrong way. LanLan1 is on a corner opposite the Palace which stretches a few blocks. Turns out if I turned the map the other way both the hotel and the Palace would still be in the right place and all the things I had wandered far and wide to find would be on my doorstep. Note to self for next time.
The War Remnants Museum was our first stop. I had been so went and had a long black instead. Not to NZ standard bet better than many I have had. Next stop the Tien Hau Pagoda which was stunningly beautiful. Lit an incense ring for the "dobbos" which they hoist up and hang from the roof. Supposed to bring good luck, peace and prosperity.
Driving through Chinatown didnt look too dissimilar to other parts of the city but we were told that there were lots of signs written in chinese; I obviously need new glasses as I couldnt see them. Still it was fun. As usual we are followed by swarms of motorbikles as they are referred to. Mindblowing to watch and even more mindblowing is that it seems to work. Mind you 31 people die each day on the roads in Vietnam; I guess percentage wise that is not as bad as it sounds. In the cities the traffic travels so slow that I could not imagine major accidents happening, unless it is a pedestrian taken out and that is iminently possible.
Driving on, we arrive at the Binh Tay markets. This is where the other markets buy their junk from and was awful. Stinking hot, smelly, full of junk, tourists, and stall holders from other market places lugging black rubbish sacks full of the wares they have purchased to take back to their market. I sat on a rock outside and people watched. Far more entertaining and far cooler, if you can call 32degrees cool. A real oppressive heat, no air movement, sticky and humid. Quite draining, but par for the course.
We drive back along the river and as usual I am mesmerised by the sitesnstruggling to comprehend how the river shacks, can sit next to the narrow but lovely homes which set next to the elaborate pagodas.
The tour over for me the bus drops the full day tourists at a restaurant and delivers me back to LanLan1. Showered, packed I enjoyed a spring roll lunch. I am assured that the lettuce has been washed in purified water so rolling I start - heaven. I head off for a foot massage which turns out to be a heavenly voyage. Firstly a rough and firm foot and lower leg massage using the wonderful linament type rub, then a repeat on my arms and hands; while still seated I am asked to lean forwards onto a huge fluffy pillow while my masseur (yes Male again) pops my bra catch and gives the a sublime back and shoulder massage. Heaven. Now off to the airport. Cambodia - Siem Reap here I come.
Sitting back and enjoying the ride I get my first chance to slowly observe this chaos with the motorbikles. It isn't actually as mad as it seems. Checking out the signs which appear all along the main road I can see that the left most lane is for cars, busses and trucks. The middle lane clearly marked for cars and motorbikles and the right most for motorbikles and bicycles. The confusion reigns when an intersection approaches and the lanes are adhered to right up to the last minute when the driver has to dart across to make a turn. Consequently that darting makes other vehicles in the way move out of their zone and into the path of someone else, and so it goes on.
At intersections you can turn left freely on a red light, but as the front bikles move round the corner the bikles at the rear move forward, irrespective of whether they are turning or not. Eventualy the width of the road gets clogged by those going straight ahead so no more can turn left. There is method in the madness. I am not saying that I would ever attempt to drive here (and I will tackle most things), but now that I understand a little better how it works it doesnt seem quite so bad.
Sitting in my comfy seat I also see a few bikle firsts;
Many people wear full frontal masks, not only for the smog, but to protect their skin. The masks come in al colours and designs, some with peaked hats attached, some with a scarf attached. But today I see one that is attached to a long apron which covers the legs and clothing of the wearer.
High heels I had seen, but now for the first time I see not must the high heels but flowing gown as well, A corner neatly tucked into the hand on the brake, but the rest billowing out and obstructing the drivers aproaching.
Many children are carried on their parents bikles, sandwiched in between two parents, on someones lap, standing in fornt of the driver, three kids and dad okn a bike. Thought I had seen it all. Guess what I hadn't. Small girl, cant have been more than about 6, standing with hands stretched across the width of the bike steering, while Mom was brushing her own hair.
Its those moments of madness that I will remember. Things like that I will remember and make me want to come back.
I arrive at the airport and am surprised to see such a lovely departure area, after the austerity of the arrivals area. Great food outlets and shops. Of course I chose food and have just enjoyed a superb Nasi Goreng, as good as anything I had in Indonesia. A sign beckons, I shall. My last taste of Vietnam, this time round. Stuff the calories.
Did I love it? Totally. I expected more western tourists and am not complaining. I expected English to be spoken more, but don't have aproblem with that at all. I didn't expect the old and the new, the poverty and the glamour right next door to each other. I expected the heat and humidity but that didnt make it any more tolerable, but is something I will have to get used to. I definitely did not expect a city where you see trees everywhere, parks, gardens, rooftops, balconies - everywhere - thankfully providing shelter from te heat and the rain and surely adding some oxygen back into the otherwise motorbikle polluted atmosphere. I knew that the people were going to be lovely and I am not dissappointed. The resiliance and the will to move on of people that have known such hardship so recently in their history is remarkable. Once again, and so far, I only met people from the tourist/hospitality industry but would dearly love to return to get to know the real peopel of this sparkling, vibrant, green city.
Great reading. You've captured this fascinating, crazy city superbly well. Am so glad you enjoyed it!
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