Wednesday 6 November 2013

Hanging in Bangkok

IThe day started slowly with me catching up on emails and stuff and trying to decide what to do with the day.  I had decided to flag breakfast.  I don't need it, didn't enjoy it and felt gross after yesterday's so after a coffee in my room I slip my feet imto my trusted Merrels and off I set. 

Armed with four maps, just to be sure I head off along the canal and walk to the Democracy Monument.  A great hulking monstrosity stuck in the middle of a roundabout and obviously not a great drawcard as the only thing round here was a pile of food stalls, lots of tuk tuks and plenty of traffic.  Yawn.

                                         


From there I carry on past the Queens Gallery and along further where plans were being made for some sort of celebration.  A stage had been set up and canopies were being erected.  On the ground were spread blue and white striped tarpaulins and many people were already laying over them.  I wonder.  I eventually see a couple of guys taking notes and ask them what the story is.  They tell me it's the protest about the Amnesty Bill.  Wow never seen a protest organised like this before. Later on my way home the whole road was full of people with TV screens projecting the speakers all round.  Interesting.  I didn't take pics in case it was considered sensitive.

As I am walking I come across a wee girl with a Pooh Bear hanging from the handlebars of her bike.  She hardly spoke but managed to tell me it was Pooh Beyar.  Her face lit up when I showed her all my pics of him on my phone and she clapped her hands and waved me goodbye.  Parents seem really receptive to me smiling and chatting to their wee ones and beam with pride.  Sadly back home I regularly get scowled at by parents when I do the same. 

I keep walking and eventually find myself just down the road from the hotel outside a nice looking place called Hotel De Moe.  Fancy looking, Daimlers, Rollers and Jags parked outside.  Must be good and I venture inside to check it out.  A Virgin Mojito ordered I sit and enjoy the aircon and the weight off my feet.  It arrives. Hmmmmmm.  A pretty poor whatever.  Half a lime squashed into a glass, no syrup, frozen mint which disintegrated and kept blocking my straw and then she tried to charge me for a real Mojito.  150baht for a horrible drink.  Still she fixed the pricing and I had a break and a cold drink.  

                                        
I walk back past the main hotel and further towards Building 2, about 100 metres along the canal and down a wee lane.  Walking past the last couple of days I see the residents in the houses/shops, all of which have wee shrines inside and looking past the shrines I see stuff, which reminds me of scenes from the TV programme "hoarders".  Stuff everywhere.  No form of tidiness, structure or anything just stuff.  I try hard not to be nosey but with few people around this morning I get the chance to get a better lok and see that most of them have a staircase to the side which must mean that they have a second floor where maybe they live or sleep.  So different to,our society but who,is to say what's right and wrong.  

Outside right along side the canal is an old phone box.  Attached to it are all manner of tarpaulings, cloths, cardboard etc which extends out about 4 metres along the canal.  Each time I pass I cant help but wonder if this sort of thing is really allowed.  Someone lives in the shelter and it looks like it is an old man (on cructhes) and some other people too.  They have a tv set which works, a bank of 4 bus/train seats in ine of which the old man usually sits, washing/clothes strung along on string and a variety of pieces of what we would call junk all through the "shack".  It breaks my heart each time I see it.

I turn the corner closer to Building 2 where a wee corner shop sits and some lovely people that always say good morning.  The housing is apartment type but certainly not flash.  At night I see them crowded around in clusters sitting in a mat or the ground all having their meals together.  Despite the low lighting and the relatively basic surroundings I don't feel at all uncomfortable walking along the lane, even at night.

I am nearly at my room but it seemed to early to go back. It seemed too early to go back (only 10:00am) so I turn around and keep walking intending going to  Wat Bovornnniwet which I think is virtually over the road from the hotel but ended up at Golden Mount, Phu Khao Thong.  I'm over Wats totally and seldom pay to go see things. I'd much rather sit and watch the people, but something made me pay the entrance fee of 20 baht for this one. I get my ticket and set off.  The path winds its way round in a circle all the time climbing, by way of shallow steps, up the hill.  On the side of the path are beautiful statues, shrines, waterfalls with fine mist showering over the path.  Surreal and cooling.  The path continues round the hill till it reaches the top wherre there is a huge shrine, Buddah and trimmings and the most sublime views of the city.

                                              

                                         
                                         
The view is Beautiful in that you can see all the contrasts, sad because there are so many people that live in shacks (or less in some cases), weird in that wherever you look there are Wats.  No point in using one to get your bearings. They all look the same.  For anyone contemplating a trip to Bangkok; make the effort to come see this.  It really is magnificent.

I carry on and eventually find myself alongside the river, not sure which way to go so I decide to catch the river ferry somewhere, anywhere.  Turns out the one I get on only goes to the city so that's fine.  On the way I get to understand why I am getting so confused with my bearings.  The canal that the hotel is on flows into another canal, which flows into another canal, which at some stage flows into the river.  I was thinking that each time I came to a canal it was the one close to home.  Wrong again.
                                        

The trip was fun.  I loved it when another ferry came in the other direction and our driver revved and went like the clappers to get over the wash from the other boat.  As we pass the makeshift blinds are raised to stop the passengers getting wet (tarpaulins strung along ghe sides of the boat and held up along a rope.  Pieces of string are placed along the length and these serve as blind pulls for when you want to raise/lower the blind.  Ingenious.)

The boat is pretty basic, long and quite narrow with benches for seating.  Many people stand when seating isnt available.  Along the sides help up by poles are thick ropes.  These you hold onto when you pull yourself in, or when standing as support.  There is no mooring, a basic wharf where the boat pulls up close and you stand in the wharf, grab the rope and haul yourself in and into a seat.

I arrive close to the city and start walking on my way to Jim Thompson's house.  Funnily Impass MBK on the way and as its lunch time I decide to go there and eat.  At least its cool.  I go up to the food area and instead of gojng in to the expensive homogenised places stop at a wee shop just outside the food area.  Here I have a great TomSam with pork crackling.  Yum.  Crysanthemum Tea as well for less than 100 baht.  Im a happy girl and feel as though I have cheated the rip offs inside the food area.

I wander on and find another great looking food hall on level 6 and as I wander lo and behold I come across the shops with the tops.  I do wonder how some of these stalls make a living.  Some of the staff were so indifferent to customers and wont even move aside so you can have a look at the stock.  Anyway eventually I find the top I wanted and find that it would never ever fit me in a million years but did find something that has nothing to do with what I was looking for.  And outfit for Jade as well and I am on my way.

I wander on to Jim Thompson's House.  Sadly,  too late to get into the museum but I did go and see the "Mnemonikos" exhibition.  Truly amazing to see what can be done with textiles.  Sadly, no photos were allowed but I would have loved to be able to get a few samples and be able to capture the three dimensional sculptures made of fabric.  I wander through the shop and wish I could justify buying some of the beautiful silk items. Just gorgeous.  The cafe beckoned and I had a cool drink whilst watching the koi in the pool.  A lovely break in the day.  
                                        
Their free shuttle dropped me back at National Stadium station where I wasn't in the slightest interested in grabbing the train and walking the rest of the way.  A tuktuk procured for 150baht I get dropped at the bridge and walk the 100 metres to my home away from home.  A lovely day hanging out in Bangkok.

Back in my room I mess around a bit and eventualy head to the hotel for dinner.  There isn't really any option close by and I dont fancy getting a tuktuk to go anywhere.  My previous meal was great.

No savvie (chardonay is everywhere but no savvy or other whites which is a shame) so I order a beer.  I never thought I would say it but am getting over coke.   There is a great choice on the menu.  I really wanted a larb but not on offer so I order a char kwey teo.  I don't think I have ever had a totally uninspiring and tasteless Asian meal until now.  No spice, no soy sauce, no tamarind, chilli on the side but made no improvement.  It was literally flat wide noodles tossed with chicken and eggs.  White, insipid and tasteless.  Horrible.

Feeling sad I go buy a trumpet ice cream and devoured that while walking back to Building 2.  It made me feel much better but still annoyed that I had to resort to junk for a meal.

And so another day draws to a close.  2 more sleeps and I meet up with Bianca.  Yay yay yay.








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