What to do today

Couldn't face eating at the hotel so I took off about 9 in search of Wat Bovornniwet which turns out was almost over the road from the front end of Building 2.

Bangkoksite.com tells me that "Wat Bovorn Nivet was built during  1824-1832 and located near Wat Rangsi Sutthawas (built in 1823). In the Sixth Reign (1910-1925) Wat Bovorn Nivet and Wat Rangsi were amalgamated into one temple called "Wat Bovorn Nivet Viharn.   This temple is one of the most important temples in Thailand because it is the temple where King Rama VI, VII and IX spent their time in being Buddhist monks".  

I struck gold as there was a 15 day celebration starting today. I didn't understand what it was but assumed it was an event celebrating a monk that featured in all the posters and memorabilia on display.  Most people were wearing black so I assumed it was a funeral.   When I returned to my room I managed to find out that revered Supreme Patriarch Somdet Phra Nyanasamvara (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nyanasamvara_Suvaddhana) died a couple of weeks ago and this was a type of memorial event.  See http://news.yahoo.com/thailands-top-buddhist-leader-dies-aged-100-065901493.html. He had been ill for many years.

              

                                           

                                           

The place slowly filled with people and stalls, souvenirs and food were being set up all round.  Glad I came early as it would be bedlam later today.  I watched a woman preparing egg to go with a rice dish. In a huge wok of hot oil she ladled the egg and with a large colander scooped up a pike and shook it until there was only solid egg left in the colander.  This she turned into a bowl and then repeated the process with another colander full.  Interesting.

Murphy's law has it that today was the one day I ventured out sleeveless (although I was wearing black) and felt particularly conspicuous being here so after a quick look around I took a few photos and left.

                                           

Wandering back to the hotel I came across a little road labelled Rambutri Village and went wandering.  Full of bars and restaurants; not an Asian patron to be seen.  Sadly the westerners there, all sitting in western type pubs and cafes all looked as though they had just stepped off a beach in attire that is not appropriate even in a western city.  No wonder we have the reputation of being loose, disrespectful and loaded with money that we throw away.  Sadly we all get tarred with the same brush and we wonder why the world hates westerners.

I digress.  I return to the room briefly and then head off again.  This time in the same direction but headed to Khao San Road where I intended staying for lunch.  Wish I hadn't gone.  It was an extension of Rambutri Village.  Horrible, so I made a quick exit.  

Every cloud has a silver lining though as my return walk took me past lots of food stalls and an Asian supermarket where I loaded up on some goodies to try them.  The yummiest were fried peanut cookies "tua tod" -  http://importfood.com/recipes/Fried-Thai-Peanut-Cookie.html which reminded me of peanut brownies only a million times crispier and better.  Yummieeeeeeee. I watched as the woman deftly dropped ladles of the mixture into the hot oil and them within minutes saw them turn that golden brown colour before she scooped them out with ladle and laid them out to cool.  

A BBQ'd banana coated with coconut was OK as long as I was eating the caramelised exterior but it didn't  excite me too much.  Tapioca chips were divine - we know then as cassava chips. And the pork crackling biscuit thingies (pork floss biscuits - similar to the rolls but round biscuit/cookie shape) with the whispy stuff in top had just the right amount of chilli and were to die for.

I wander back and stop for a wee rest at the side of the river near Bulding 2.  I watched the fish in the river for a while wondering if this is where the fish they sell on the street comes form.  I wouldnt eat anything out of this river.  It looks putrid.  

Then I sat and pondered while eating a tua tod.  Something made me look round to see a couple of monks gazing into the water.  I look too and there is an unusual fish.  It had the face of a crocodile, the same markings, rough skin like a croc, legs like a croc but the tail of a fish.  We all watched it for a while and the monks left.  The fish moved up river so I went to the next bridge where I waited till it swam along, graceful and quietly, ugly as sin.   When I was in Siem Reap there was a weirdo guy staying at the Villas.  I gathered he was a regular customer and the day I saw him he was showing all the patrons the alligator fish they had in the pond.  Small boring, yawn.  But this  fish today (which I am assuming was some sort of an alligator fish) would have been over 1.5 metres and nothing like the alligator fish that Mr Google images has.    

                         

                                          

That's the morning done.  Tua tod and pork floss bicuits for lunch in my room.  Yummmmm.

A bit of a break and I am off again.  This time walking along the canal to the river.  The surroundings were quite surreal.  From total squalor it would change to lush vegetation and a wee hotel tucked away, then back to squalor.  

                                                

                                     

What amazes me the most about the way people live is that these people live in the sort of place that we wouldn't put out animals in and yet, like in many other similar parts of the world, appear well dressed with clean and ironed clothes.  All school children that I have seen here and in other countries come out of these, for want of a better name, shacks looking neat, tidy, clean and perfectly groomed.  How do they do it?  It shows that they have a pride in going to school and maybe thats what the difference is.  Many of our kids dont appreciate the opportunities they have and don't want the schooling.  Sad.

I walk down as far as the river (not the creek), past the Phra Sumen Fortress and crossed a lovely park to get a good view of the  Rama VIII Bridge.  Rather magnificent.  Walking on I get to Phra arthrit Pier and as I had nothing better to do I hopped on the next boat towards the city.

                                       

It was fascinating taking in the sights of the river.  Beautiful temples and buildings on the shore, shacks right next door.  Ferry boats and the odd "cruise" boats share the water with us, all creating waves which help to drench us.  One particular cruise boat created a huge wake and as it passed I had the opportunity to have a god look at it.  I recognised the name.  It was one of the "luxury" cruisers I had been reading about.  If that is a luxury cruiser I am never going on a cruise, ever, ever.

                                       

I got off the ferry at and caught the BTS to Siam where I went for a wander, checked out the Siam Complex, ate a very average spicy pork salad in a food hall and caught a tuk tuk home in the rain.  

                                          

Another lovely day and only one more sleep.  

I have a busy few days coming up helping Bianca with "wedding stuff" (yay) so may not get a chance for updates but should be back up and blogging by Monday.  Watch this space.