After 4 days I have got used to Lamphu Canalan d I think despite my comment earlier kn I found that there is quite a lot to do in the immediate vicinity of the hotel BUT it is far from public transport and too far too walk to the city central. The restaurant is hit and miss and being in Building 2 doesnt have the charm I expected.
But still today Bianca arrives and that is my main focus. This story covers three days of hanging out with my buddy Bianca. No sightseeing, lots of walking, lots of laughs, a bit of eating and plenty of shopping for wedding things.
I leave Building 2 in the company of a lovely young lady who kindly wheeled my big bag to the main bulding in the rain. It was hosing down. I checked out and a young boy helped me with my luggage to the main road. He told me he was from Siam Reap and had left his family to come to Bangkok to work to be able to send home to his Mom and Dad. Maybe a lie, maybe not, but he was lovely. Just as we arrived at the main road three cabs came past. We hailed one down and he refused to take me into the middle of the city - too much traffic. Thats OK another is bound to come along soon. It didn't, so then I decided to grab the first tuktuk (up until the moment I had that thought there were plenty) and then no more tuk tuk. Typical. It took a while of cabs streaming past before I found one to take me to the Atlanta Hotel. Bianca followed some time later and after a very tearful reunion we dumped our bags and headed off.
Breakfast soon. Two train rides later and we found the breakfast place was about 50 metres for the corner of our street and within easy walking distance from there. A great AhiAhi salad under our belts we googled the address of the hairdresser that we had an appointment and checked directions. Mr Google lied big time and from the train station he sent us to we had about a 30 minute taxi drive back in the direction we had come to get to the hairdresser.
Wash and style for me (hotel showers being what they are there was no way I could wash my hair with a trickle of water) and cut and colour for Bianca.
Hers took a while so I left her there and grabbed a cab to the dentist. I knew the walking route was far more direct than the taxi so when the cab had to veer off the main ine way road I was smart and got out and walked. Stupid idea. After walking for an hour I ended up back in the same place as where I got out of the cab and ended up getting another cabto take me all the way to the dentist. That done and a motorbike ride back to the hotel. At that time of night there is no point in a cab. They dont move from the spot you grab them at. The bike ride was somewhat scary for I was conscious of my handbag being easy fodder for snatchers and was trying to hang on like hell to the back of this kamikazee crazyman with one hand. Never again. But he got me back to the hotel PDQ.
We were both exhausted so stayed in the hotel for dinner and had an early return to our rooms. Back there I found that there is no wifi in rooms so no blogging. I missed it. Like travelling with a friend and comparing notes at the end of the day.
The hotel is interesting. Very very central. Very very cheap $NZ30 per night. Very very basic, but clean and has all the basics. It is a Bangkok institution being the only original hotel from the 1950's. A building that in those days would have been gorgeous. Today it is character filled and fun. You can read the full story here. http://www.theatlantahotelbangkok.com
SATURDAY
Next day we set off early to find a recommended tailor to get some alterations done to Bee's dress. They weren't able to help in time so we took consolation in a treat at the Shangrilah Hotel, sitting in a lovely lounge overlooking the river we both enjoyed an omelet and fruit juice. It was lovely but the meal cost us the price of both our hotel rooms, which by local standards is expensive.
We were right next to the pier so decided to catch a ferry to Chinatown for our next errand. The other day I got the ferry for 35baht for about 10 stops. Today I am told 100 baht each for 2 stops. Oh well. The difference was that the 35 baht was a trip on a scheduled service. The 100 baht got us a life vest and a trip direct to Chinatown in a boat with about 8 other people. 100 baht is close to $4 so hardly a killer.
We arrive in Chinatown and easily find Sampeng Lane, our destination, the home of many fabric shops. Here we managed to find many of the things we wanted as well as a shop that sold the most divine laces. To die for. Oh if only I needed lace, this would be the place I would come. We did find libbon which is called libbon in Thai as well as in English. It is just the pronunciation that changes slightly. We pronounce it ribbon.
Errands finished we toss up whether to catch a train or a tuktuk. Too hot and tired for the walk to the train station we decide on a tuktuk. I ask the first one how much and he tells me 200baht. No way I say and move to the next. 250 he tells us. At that stage I figure maybe 200 wasn't so bad. It is a long way and the traffic crazy. So we pile in. All the way along the trip he was telling other drivers 200baht to soi2 (our address) and laughing. We got done well and proper but it also gave us a few laughs about how we fed a family in one easy trip.
A bit on window shopping and time for a snack before back to the hotel and getting posh for our night out. We asked about a cab and was told it was easier to get a train to our destintination; The Banyan Tree, Vertigo Bar, sitting on the top of level 61 of the tallest building in Bangkok. Off we set for an uneventful ride get to the station. Not a long walk once we figured out what direction we had to go in and once up to the rooftop we found my neighhbour, Sue Nichols, with a superb seat, right on the edge with 180degree views. Brilliant Sue, thanks.
Sitting on top of the world having a civilised drink is quite surreal. When we first arrived it was foggy and just starting to darken a bit but within thirty minutes the sun had set (we couldnt see the sunset because of the fog) and the buldings were glittering and glowing against the night sky. There are so many other tall buildings that you don't feel as though you are so high up but I wouldn't look over the side. There is no roof so you literally sit under the stars. The only barriers are about as high as a compulsory swimming pool fence in NZ and mainly glass so that you get an unimpeded view out to the expanse.
It soon starts to spit. If it wasnt surreal before it is now. The rain starts to fall heavier. I stay as long as I could, well after most others had left and waited for the torrents but was moved on. I was waiting for the lightning and thunder. As terrified as I am of heights and as uncomfortable as I was sitting up so high I forgot it once the thrill of the storm was in my sights. Sadly the bar at level 52 wasnt as exciting. Partly roofed, and even though it had a very high stud it wasnt the same as sitting under the stars. Oh well. It was great while it lasted.
From there we caught a cab to Soi13, Thonglor (Soi means lane, so this was lane 13 off the street called Thonglor) where we went to an area full of restaurants called "Screenspace". There were many restaurants to choose from but we went to Fatr Gut’z, which was what we would call Thai Fusion. Crisry chicken tenderloins. Yumm. Softshell crab with TomSum. Yumm. But to die for was the cajun prawn dish which came with a divine mango salsa. The prawns were exceptionally good and were a great way to finish a great day.
SUNDAY started with a great breakfast at Bicycle Cafe and then a trip to collect one newly dry cleaned wedding dress before we set off on the last of the wedding shopping. Lunch at the Paragon centre before a trip to MBK for a crispy pancake and cold drink. We both topped our SIMS up and I got a wifi SIM for my ipad. Such a long convoluted process for both the new Sim and the top up with cards being taken out of our own phone and inserted in a phone belonging to the shop, where they send messages back and dorth. Quite backward, expensive and time consuming especially when compared to both Vietnam and Cambodia where it was a 2 second job. My wifi connection on the ipad only worked for 30 minutes before it died totally, even though I was in the middle of a huge city. The phone SIM was costing 49 baht ($2) per day irrespective of usage and they insisted that it was the cheapest package. I think not.
Bianca had some touch ups to her hair, we did a bit of shopping and had a wander before returning to the Paragon Cente where we had a very mediocre meal at Sizzlers (my fault, I was on a trip down memory lane not thinking that dining has moved in in the 20 years since I used to eat there.)
The day finished with a totally unneccesary but enjoyable ice cream sundae from Swensens. The diet starts tomorrow.
A few interesting observations over the last few days
Considering the numebr of western tourists that come to Bangkok I am surprised at how little English is spoken here. English was more prevalent in Cambodia and Vietnam.
Also with the number of tourists there is little in the way of english signage or information that is easily accessible to the english speaking person
Service staff, in general, were rude, indifferent and made little attempt to try and understand what we were trying to ask for. There were some wonderful exceptions and those few made such an impact because they were so few and far between.
The traffic is unrelenting. Hours to go anywhere, total chaos and at times total gridlocks.
The variation in spelling of street and place names between street signs on the same road, regular maps, BTS maps and other maps is dreadfully confusing. The same patch of street can have a different name or translation of a name on each medium.
Street signage is equally as confusing. We were never sure whether the sign was showing the street we were in or the street we were coming up to or was a directional sign for something else. I suppose you get used to it.
Despite enjoying my first four days in Bangkok, the last few days have made me remember why I said on my first visit why I didn't want to return. Roll on Laos.
MONDAY
Nothing special planned. Bianca was going to leave today but flights changed to tomorrow so we did some shopping, sent some emails and chilled a bit.
As I sat in the hotel lobby writing this early today I was watching people come and go through a door. The door doesn't open but they go through the door where the glass used to be and there is now an empty void. Classic.
The other night when sitting down in the foyer I heard singing, soft, haunting and magical but couldnt figure out where it was coming from. It wasnt continuous so must have been someone singing. Today I discovered the source; The receptionist sitting at her desk, gently singing. Beautiful.
Rested we then went in search of some items that Bee wanted but after getting told where to find the item, going there and walking around aimlessley and not finding them we were in desperate need of sustenance. That we found at the Avant Garde Bistrot in the form of divine prawns and a yum salad (oh and fries on the side just for good measure).
After walking most of the day we crawled to the Siam Paragon centre, went to the most amazing supermarket where I just couldnt resist and bought a french stick and some cheese. Oh my I couldn't wait to get back and eat it.
Nearly back home I decided to check out the parmacy to see if I could by some chance get some more of my prescription medication, just in case. Here you don't need a prescription to buy drugs but since mine are quite potent I wasnt sure if I could get them OTC. Sure enough 30 prednisone for a measly 50baht. A done deal. Except I get home and check. 5mg prednisone don't come in that colour, but 20mg do come in the colour but not the exact size and the markings are different. So what do I have? I am never going to know because I am not taking them.
And we keep walking. Arriving home we were totally shattered and had to rest in the bar with a beer to summon up the energy to go upstairs to our rooms.
Bread and cheese for a snack in my room. Heaven. Dinner in the hotel. A great larb gai. I am exhausted, sated and happy.
It has been wonderful spending time with Bianca. We have done heaps. Covered a huge amount of ground. Walked ourselves silly. Eaten far too much. Laughed and bitched and I'm sad its over. But I will see both her and Michael again very soon and cant wait.
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