The email went along the lines of "sorry but the monks are doing tests next week so you can't go to teach, but come anyway and we can spend next week learning to speak Thai and about Thai culture". I saw red and certainly do not want a week of learning Thai and about the people instead of a weeks teaching in a temple. After seething for a while I rang the Manager who agreed that I could do the one week teaching, go away (pre planned to go to Luang Prabang for wedding stuff), come back and do the training and then teach one more week. It totally stuffs my porgram and chances of fitting in a number of things but oh well, what the hell.
Breakfast at the hotel was lovely, few choices but who cares when you get fresh french bread and yum croissant with divine boysenberry jam. I forwent the cooked breakfast and left sated and happy.
Now I need to decide how to fill this week in and see a bit of the country so I trotted off to the local isite. Bummer closed on the weekend. Oh well.
So I went wandering and took in a few of the sites, past That Dam, or black stupa, on a quiet roundabout not far from Talat Sao (the morning market). That in Laotian refers to an inverted bell shape (or unopened lotus flower) structure that usually contains relics of the Buddha. Legend has it that a seven-headed water serpent – a ‘Naga’ lived here to protect the stupa that was once covered in pure gold. During the Siamese-Laotian war in the 1820s, the gold was pillaged and taken to Siam, now Thailand, leaving the legacy that is the black stupa today. It doesnt really look too black, just grimy with weeds/moss growing out of all the cracks.
People had left small offerings on the side and they looked so pretty in amongst the grass growing our of the nooks and crannies of the stupa.
Walking on I found Talat Sao, the morning markets and a mall, which was reminiscent of MBK a few years back. No glitz, no glamour, just electronics, basic clothing and some nice looking coffee shops. Down one end was a food hall which I would have tried had it not been for breakfast. My eating so far in Laos has been very civilised and I am missing my street food.
Walking away from the mall I am stopped by a Brit asking the way to a bookstore. I felt very proud when, with the help of my map, was able to point out the way. We got talking and shared notes about Bangkok. It seems that many people have the same view, that it is an ugly city with too many cars and rude people. Like me, he was loving Vientiane, enjoying the feshness and the lack modernisation of the city and the lovely people.
I meet Bianca and Michael for a drink and then we moved further along to Pimenton, a spanish tapas bar where we had some divine snacks; warmed olives, tiny tiny deep fried kalamari, chorizo with onions and apples, pan con tomate and a glass of NZ Sav blanc. O so good.
Over lunch we talked about going to the last day of the festival tomorrow and Michael mentioned that we would need to wear the traditional skirts. I had seen some at the mall so after lunch headed off there to see if could buy one. By the time I arrived everything was closing down but I did find the shop I had seen this morning with some beautiful tailored version of the skirts. The one I wanted was not made for people with a backside so I would have to settle for a more basic style. I tried one and it was lovely but a) too expensive and b) too hot. Many of the ladies just wear the length of fabric wrapped around and folded over to form a pleat. The one I tried was beautifully tailored, lined and a proper wrap over with a split. The lining meant that it was heavy and hot. I loved it but knew it wouldn't get worn again and I wasn't prepared to spend nearly $150 for the fun of it.
Oh well it was a nice walk. Again I pass the very impressive Palace on the way. I would love to go inside. I wonder how......
Back to the hotel, and o dear I fell asleep. What a shame. Even more of a shame when I went enthusiastically back to the Wat I went to last night expecting to see a continuation of the celebrations there. Sadly, not a thing. I was looking forward to the street food just as much as the celebrations. Street food not a glimmer and stall holders were loading their left over towers into cars to move them to the main temple for tomorrow's final day of celebrations.
So with a box of OK take away noodles, from a place called Nudle, I return to my room, eat and then ready myself for an early check-out tomorrow. We are going to the main temple bright and early to feast our eyes on what is happening there. This is my last day at Mandala Boutique Hotel and i have loved it although having gone out tonight and not found much in the way of food I realise that maybe I am better off staying in town next time I need a hotel. Worry about that when I need it.
Goodnight from Mandala Boutique Hotel. You have been great and thank younfor the excellent wi-fi tonight.
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